Introduction- SRAM eTap Front Derailleur Problems
SRAM RED eTAP is, without a doubt, one of the most sought-after sports technology products in the cycling industry. While there are many reviews and articles written about SRAM eTap, there are still more unique eTap features that are relatively unknown, and some of those unknowns might be considered problems. In this article, we look at some of these features to better understand the functionality and how to adjust and fix some of these problems.
How to adjust eTap SRAM systems
A general rule of thumb applies to all SRAM eTap systems. At the rear, start by shifting into the second-highest cogwheel. At this point, the pulleys should be aligned with the center of the cog. If not, use the system’s micro-tuning function, which is achieved by pressing and holding the AXS button of the corresponding gearshift inside the shift paddle, while pressing on the shift paddle itself.
The right shifter will adjust the derailleur outboard in 0.25mm increments. The left shift will similarly adjust the derailleur inboard in 0.25mm increments. The derailleur may not appear to move much at such small increments, so watch to ensure the derailleur LED is flashing to confirm the command has been executed.
To adjust the limit screws
- Start by shifting the reverse gear to the highest position.
- Adjust the lower limit stop screw (marked with an L) to touch the rear derailleur’s inner link lightly.
- Move the rear sprocket down and adjust the upper limit stop screw (H) until it lightly touches the inner sprocket link.
If problems persist, check the B gap. First, install a pressure gauge to adjust the chain clearance on the upper pulley and then, using a 2.5mm wrench, turn the adjustment screw B until the upper teeth are aligned with the larger tooth and the outline of the gauge corresponding to the size of your cassette.
If the eTap derailleur is not functioning properly, check the height. To do so, align the highest tooth’s tip on the chainring with the internal derailleur plate’s preparation line. Ensure that the cage is rotated so that the guide marks line up with the large chainring.
Next, check that the limit switch screws are correctly adjusted. Start by moving the rear derailleur to the lower sprocket and the front derailleur to the outer position. Then, turn the front limit switch of the front derailleur clockwise to move it inward or counter-clockwise to move it outward, with a gap of 0.5mm-1mm between the inside of the derailleur plate outside and the outside of the chain.
Set the chainring from the smallest chainring to the largest rearmost cog and turn the lower limit screw clockwise to move it outward (or counter-clockwise to move it inward). Again, the goal is to have a gap of 0.5mm-1mm between the inside of the derailleur’s inner plate and the outside of the chain.
Above all, whichever system you use, always make sure the batteries are properly charged. Otherwise, none of these settings will make a difference.
How to Fix the eTAP AXS Chain Drop Problem
Nothing puts the brakes on a bike ride like power outages and front shifting issues. When this happens with eTap AXS drivetrains, it’s usually the result of tuning the front derailleur outside of its specifications.
The video here shows you how you should set up the eTap AXS system (Credit to SRAM TECH):
This quick and easy eTap troubleshooting guide should help you get back on track and enjoy the ride. Here are three key elements of a good setup:
Mounting position
The position of the front derailleur on the bike is critical for its performance. This configuration switch has the greatest effect on your ride.
First, make sure that the mounting height is correct. With the derailleur shifted to the small ring, adjust the derailleur over the solder mounting screw so that the outer cage plate is 1mm-2mm above the uppermost tooth of the large ring. You can also use the guide mark engraved on the cage’s inner plate to set the large ring’s height.
Second, check the rotational alignment by placing the derailleur on the large chainring and securing it to the welded mounting screw so that the alignment marks on the front and back of the case line up with the large chainring.
These two adjustments can influence each other, so keep that in mind when configuring and check your work. When you are satisfied with the front derailleur’s position, slowly turn the mounting screw to a torque of 6 Nm.
Limit Adjustment
When connecting to the large front ring and lower rear sprocket, tighten theupper limit switch screw to a gap of 0.5mm-1mm between the outer derailleur plate and the internal deflector chain.
When shifted to the small ring up front and the larger rear sprocket, adjust the lower limit switch screw to a gap of 0.5mm-1mm between the derailleur inner plate and chain.
Installation of Wedge
Inspect the rear of the front derailleur to see if the support panel is properly installed and adjusted. Without this, the outer limit-setting must be compensated to produce a fast shift, but there is a risk that the up-shift chain will drop.
Make sure the wedge has easy contact with the frame or braze-on. If not, loosen the 2mm mounting screw, slide the cleat forward until it is firmly against the derailleur, then tighten the cleat screw to 0.3Nm.
Useful Reading and Credits:
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=143727
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/road/campaigns/troubleshooting-etap-axs-chain-drop